The anorak-clad waitresses are friendly, serving yak steaks and yak butter tea - an acquired taste. Shangri-La's bars and cafes have been geared towards Western backpackers for a couple of years now, and have names like the Yak Bar, the Raven or the Treehouse. The new buildings are modern, parodies of local architectural styles, with monstrous Tibetan details superimposed onto Las Vegas-scale hotels. NEWLY CHRISTENED SHANGRI-LA is a frontier town - dusty, not pretty, with huge construction projects lining its main drag. Its reputation in the West began in the 1930s when it was the fantasy kingdom of English writer James Hilton's novel Lost Horizon.
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